So how can you tell whether or not your vitamin C serum is still in its prime? In serum form, it should maintain a colorless or light straw hue, meaning that if it’s bright yellow or brown, it’s probably time to toss it. These innocent slip-ups can cause your beloved serum to become “oxidized to dehydroascorbic acid, which is less stable and less efficacious,” Dr. 4Īs powerful and game-changing as vitamin C can be, it’s pretty easy to unintentionally reduce its effects-by leaving the cap open for too long, for example, or storing it near direct sunlight. In fact, research shows that once the concentration is higher than 20%, vitamin C doesn’t become any more effective and it can even be irritating, especially to sensitive or dry skin. For those that do, options typically range from 10% to 30%, though a higher percentage doesn’t necessarily indicate better results, according to Dr. Paying attention to the concentration of vitamin C can be helpful too, but note that many products don’t list that information on the label. Some gentler and more stable derivatives worth considering: tetrahexyldecyl ascorbate (THD), sodium ascorbate, magnesium ascorbyl phosphate, and ascorbyl palmitate. It’s also highly unstable, which is why it’s important to store it away from light and air (more on that below). Weinstein explains, cautioning that it can be irritating for sensitive skin. 4 “Typically, this form has a higher potency and efficacy than its counterparts,” Dr. Chiu recommends seeking out the well-studied “gold standard of active vitamin C,” called L-ascorbic acid (the strongest, purest version).
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